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Brussels Doubts

I had no particular ambition to ever go to Belgium. Really, especially after Mr. P told me that Belgium is the hapless butt of many-a-joke in France, sort of like how the US pillories poor Canada. But when we were planning to visit his sister’s family in southeastern England, we wanted to extend our visit into a surrounding area. At first we thought about going to Ireland, Scotland, or the English countryside, but late November isn’t exactly the best time of year to be traipsing around the highlands. It seemed safer to stay in a city, and when we found out that a high-speed train to Brussels stopped not 10 minutes from Mr. P sister’s house, we decided that we could do worse than visit a country known primarily for its chocolate, waffles, and beer.

So after landing in Heathrow, we found our way to the international train station via the London Underground and less than 2 hours later, we were in Brussels. And we wondered… what now?

Belgian Waffles

Well, neither of us could envision ourselves walking down the street scarfing down a waffle unless we had just skied the Matterhorn, although it was lovely to have the option.

Chocolate, however, is another story. We picked a chocolate store out of the dozens that lined the Grand Place, marched in, and demanded a sample. Heavenly. We also checked out the most amazing-looking cookie store ever.

Brussels Cookie Store

Ummm… where are those lovely green local sprouts that I so adore?

Somehow, we managed not to spoil our appetite for a lovely meal featuring oysters and the ever-popular Brussels mussels.

Brussels Mussels

After dinner we wandered around the Grand Place, admiring the fine buildings built centuries ago by Belgium’s colonial wealth. While Brussels as a whole was a fairly seedy and indistinctive city, the buildings in the Grand Place were impressive.

Bread House in Brussel’s Grand Place

Brussels Town Hall under a Full Moon

Bread House from a Side Street

We cashed in a chunk of loyalty points to stay at the Hilton Brussels City, a hotel that seemed lovely and friendly until we found out that they charged 30 euros for breakfast. We had plenty of plush, white bath towels, but no place to put them.

The next day we woke up, found a cafe that sold 2 euro croissants, and ventured to the Royal Museums of the Fine Arts to tour the Ancient and Modern Art museums (skipping the Magritte museum devoted exclusively to Belgian surrealist Rene Magritte.) It seemed sensible to shell out an extra 4 euros each to rent audio guides, as I have found that looking at art without informed commentary is like watching a movie without sound. We started in the Ancient Art museum (pre-1800), an era in which Belgian Art excelled (probably because Belgium as a country didn’t yet exist, snark snark) and produced simply astounding illustrations of numerous Catholic fairy tales.

The coolest thing about the Royal Museums is that photography is allowed sans flash, a policy that we did not discover until we reached the Modern Art museum (post-1800), when Belgium stopped keeping pace with the rest of the art world and started producing bizarre imitations of Impressionist, Realist, and Surrealist art. “What will the Audio guide say about this in 300 years?” I asked Mr. P as we gazed upon a piece that consisted of a mirror partially covered by a green curtain.

Royal Museums of Fine Art in Brussels

Belgian Realism

Art

Of course, the most popular piece of art in the city of Brussels is the Mannekin Pis, a small bronze fountain statue of a strikingly-muscled naked boy pissing. The statue has enjoyed an enduring, mysterious fame for centuries, so we were behooved to marvel upon it amid a crowd of unabashed tourists.

Mannekin Pis

Ah, Brussels. So tasty, yet so tawdry.

Brussels in a Nut Shell

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Heathrow Airport Passport Control, 8ish Days Ago, 6am

UK Border Agent: (Glancing at my USA passport) What is your purpose in the UK?

Me: Well, I’m visiting my husband’s sister.

UK Border Agent: Are you traveling with your husband?

Me: Yes, but he has a EU passport, so he’s in the other queue.

UK Border Agent: Is your husband from the UK?

Me: No, he’s from France.

UK Border Agent: Oh, so from here you’re going to France?

Me: Actually, we’re going to Brussels.

UK Border Agent: Your husband’s sister lives in Brussels?

Me: No, she lives in the UK, in Kent. We’re taking the train to Brussels for three days, and then to Amsterdam for two days, and then stopping in Kent for three days on our way back to London.

UK Border Agent: And your purpose in Brussels and Amsterdam is…?

Me: Just, you know, sightseeing.

UK Border Agent: (Studying landing card) Where do you and your husband live?

Me: We live in the US, in Boston.

UK Border Agent: (With an ever-so-faint smirk) So why did you fly Air Canada?

Me: Um, well, it was the cheapest flight, to go through Ottawa.

UK Border Agent: (Stamping passport and handing it back to me in one swift motion) Pleasant journeys, ma’am.

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“Did he just call me an asshole?”

Last night was the third Thursday of November, which is known by wine aficionados as Nouveau Beaujolais… the debut of France’s first wine’s newest vintage which is ordained by law not to be released a moment before midnight of this day.

Of course, those partaking of the newest Beaujolais as soon as it arrives in the United States should be warned that most wines need a few weeks to rest after they have undergone intercontinental travel, otherwise the Beaujolais tastes like vinegar that’s cleaned barn stables. This doesn’t stop many US wine stores from getting into the Nouveau Beaujolais spirit with a party/tasting! even if the Beaujolais underwhelms…

We arrived at our local wine store at 8:45, on the tail end of their Nouveau Beaujolais celebration. After we picked up our tasting glasses, the owner of the store made a beeline to us. He knows us as good customers by sight.

“Welcome, welcome, I just want to apologize for the music, but all French music is really horrible!” he said, grinning. Obviously he had been tasting the new Beaujolais extensively. “I apologize if you’re from France! Ha ha ha!”

I pointed at Mr. P. “Actually, I am from France,” he admitted.

“No shit? Well, next year , you’ll have to give me music to play, because I couldn’t find any good French music at all!” he said, patting Mr. P on the shoulder. “I’ll hold you to that.”

“Well, there’s always Edith Piaf,” Mr. P said.

The owner adopted a look of mock outrage, turned to me and asked, “Did he just call me an asshole?”

_____________

On that note, I’m off to go indulge my inner Griswold…

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Pain in My Neck

For the past three days, I’ve had a very literal pain in my neck of mysterious origins. I’m not prone to random musculoskeletal pains, so I’ve been cranky about it, as well as contrite about all of the times that I’ve discounted Mr. P’s bodily creaks and twinges. I remember how he used to complain about upper-back pain on a near-daily basis for three months until I told him, “I don’t believe that your pain can be that bad, because anybody else with health insurance as good as yours would have been to see a doctor rather than endure the corporeal torment that you profess to be experiencing, my love.”

Mr. P now sees a chiropractor who has figured out a way to bill the insurance company for 30-minute massages, so he’s all set. “You should go to my chiropractor,” he says (which probably won’t happen because the one time that I went to get my back adjusted, I passed out on the floor like a sack of potatoes, stunning some poor Newbury Street chiropractor who probably thought he severed my brain stem.)

It hurts on the right side of my neck when I turn my head fully to the left, and it hurts on the right side of my neck when I turn my head fully to the right. As I sit at a computer all day long and really have no need to twist my neck to and fro, the pain mainly rears:

1- When I’m sleeping. Some nights, I slumber like a rock. Other night, I toss, turn, and wake up on my stomach with my arms and legs splayed like a weather vane.

2-When I drive. Since I compulsively check my blind spot, I am now experiencing searing neck pain every time I turn my head. Way to add injury to insult when I discover some loutish Jeep lurking in my rear quarter.

3-When I do yoga. Could this be how I injured myself in the first place? Ah, the irony of practicing these ancient gymnastics in a modern environment. I cannot stop the strive. I insist on deepening the spinal twist, on intensifying the backbend. I have but precious few minutes a week to practice yoga, and I make them count… until they don’t.

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The Split End

For the past year, the long-distance relationship that I was trying to carry on just wasn’t working out. The distance wasn’t an issue at first… or, at least, infatuated, that is what I told myself. But all of the time that I spent traveling so that we could be together became a strain. The thought that I couldn’t just pop in for a quickie made me anxious and lonely. The only healthy, sane thing to do was to call its quits and find myself a new hairdresser.

Oh, it was hard. My ex-hairdresser Lauren was probably the love of my hair’s life; in addition to her cutting and coloring talent, she had a genuinely sweet personality and a knack for chatting about anything. Four years ago, she brought my hair back from the brink of chemical overdose and nursed it back to life in time for my wedding two years ago — the most important hair event of any women’s life. She gave me a fresh coat of blond four day’s prior to the big day. “So when’s the wedding?” she had asked. “Oh, on Saturday,” I said, and Lauren began cracking up. “Any other woman would be in here, freaking the eff out, but you’re so laid back about your hair!”

It’s true, I am shamefully laid back about my hair. I know that my hair hasn’t been a positive feature of mine since I was a six-year blond cherub, back before it began getting increasingly ashy until I dyed it black at age 14. And my real hair color hasn’t seen the light of day since…

Until last August. That was my last hair appointment with Lauren, though she didn’t know it at the time and I didn’t have the guts to tell her. But ever since I switched jobs and went from working in Boston to the suburbs, getting to Lauren’s salon in downtown Boston because an odyssey that involved leaving work early — for my HAIR — and consumed an entire weeknight. It seemed like the best thing to do was to break up with Lauren, and while I was at it, break up with expensive, time-consuming single-process color.

Oh, Lauren, baby. I miss you. I miss your hands running through my hair, teasing out my ashy brown roots with a lathered paint brush of ammonia and peroxide. I miss the tug of the hairbrush and the stinging heat of your blow dries. I miss regaling you with the tedious details of my life, and you smiling as if enthralled, as if you have never met someone who works in a cubicle and pounds keys for a living. I miss your dedication to my hair — always striving to making it as blond and healthy as it was when I was 6. You saved my hair from myself.

Posted in Existence.

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You Know, For Kids!

Today at work, I was doing Google investigation into how other educational entities typically present resources and materials to teachers when I stumbled over the CIA Kid’s Page (here). Just who are these educators who turn to cia.gov for curriculum pointers? I’m picturing male high school history teachers who coach football, not-so-subtly mock the class intellectuals, and secretly or openly yearn to torture terrorist operatives.

The CIA Kid’s Page also features cyber-safe content that allows children to satisfy their curiosity about just what the CIA does:

The CIA is an independent US government agency that provides national security “intelligence” to key US leaders so they can make important, informed decisions. CIA employees gather intelligence (or information) in a variety of ways, not just by “spying” like you see in the movies or on TV (though we do some of that, too).

Hey kids, the CIA also gets information by using “interrogation techniques” such as simulated drowning (or “waterboarding.”) It’s kind of like when your older brother dunks you at the swimming pool until you give him your candy.

The CIA also provides a handy assortment of lesson plans for teachers to use to guide their student’s exploration of the CIA website, including practicing how to gather and analyze information (here) by interrogating elderly family members with questions like “Where did you live? Where did you go with your friends? How did you communicate with your friends?” And if Granny claims that she can’t remember, remind her that you have ways of “helping” her to remember.

Posted in The 9 to 5.

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A (Mon)Day with Shiva Rea

Rock-star yoga teachers frequently go on tour; they hit all of the popular retreats, spas, and studios, bringing their personal strain of yoga (and their DVDs, books, and other branded merchandise) to the masses. I have never experienced real-time yoga with a bonafide celebrity teacher (although once I glimpsed Baron Baptiste mingling in his Cambridge studio surrounded by a sweaty flock of disciples who had just labored under his tutelage) because it’s so rare that teachers of this calibre actually make it into the city of Boston — usually they stop at the Kripalu Center in Western Massachusetts, and while a weekend of breath, bandhas, and beyond with Rodney Yee sounds tempting, I’d be too busy stressing out over the $500 tuition/accommodation fee to think about anything else.

Somerville Arts at the Armory

But on Monday, Boston (or rather Somerville, but close enough) was blessed by a visit from Shiva Rea, one of the most sought-after yoga teachers with near-universal appeal — she satisfies the younger yoginis who crave nonstop tripod headstands as well as the more mature practitioners who prefer to slowly sway their hips back and forth. Shiva Rea is also my absolute favorite yoga instructor with whom I faithfully practice at least 2-3 times per week — on DVD, of course. Rea’s multi-city “Temple of Rasa Yoga Experience” tour was indeed pricey –$55 for each of the two-hour long sessions, and then $25 for the 90-minute mat-less trance dance at night. I opted to take both of the two-hour long sessions, wincing that I was spending about two-month’s worth of my yoga budget in one day. But… it’s much better to waste money on an EXPERIENCE than a useless material good. (My consolation was that I didn’t have to take the day off of work or call out “sick.” Since my workplace gave us the choice of taking off Columbus Day or Veteran’s Day, I was one of the 10% who choose Veteran’s Day, and then I simply swapped Monday for Thursday.)

Monday morning was dismal and rainy as I made my way to Somerville’s Center for Arts, an armory recently converted into a non-profit community space. I joined a steady stream of mat-toting women in the registration line, stashed my stuff on the balcony, and then claimed a spot on the expansive floor in front of a flower-adorned stage. The floor slowly filled up with mostly women, mostly wearing Lululemon (Lululemmings, as I once heard them called), mostly appearing to be yoga teachers or teachers-in-training. I chatted lightly with the rare guy who was sitting to my left, liking that, relative to the rest of the crowd, he also seemed to be a yoga novice. Together, we counted how many of our present and past yoga teachers we saw (him 3, me 3).

Shiva came out on stage late; the drummer started a slow but enlivening beat and we began our movement. Shiva Rea is all about movement, uninhabited and free-form, doing whatever feels natural in the moment. I usually skip these parts on DVD, because I feel sort of silly frolicking around the study, but it felt pretty good to shake out my body on my mat in a crowded room. I was surprised by how many of Shiva’s “flow” sequences I recognized from her DVDs, and when we started the Agni Namaskar, which is centered around 108 push-ups, I felt pretty comfortable. Hell, it was actually much easier to complete the 9 rounds of 12 push-ups in the armory than it was in my living room. In between each round, we did some standing poses and arm balances. All in all, it was a very rigorous practice, and true to Shiva’s word, everyone collapsed pretty happily into Savasana (also true to her word, the session ran late, although it did not feel like 2 1/2 hours of yoga!) After we emerged from Savasana she lead a series of chants. I’m not a huge fan of chanting, although it does satisfy some primitive proclivity for the primal

Despite the fact I watch her DVDs religiously, I would not have been able to pick Shiva Rea out on a street. Not to sound mean, but she looked older in person, probably because her skin is beginning to succumb to the ravages of Californian sunshine. Her body was enviably toned and tiny (much tinier than her videos, incidentally). Her blond hair looked bleached rather than natural. All in all, she looked pretty damn good, and she sounded good, too., her marvelous voice perfectly blending serenity, power, and confidence.

Shiva Rea

The morning session over, I milled around the armory, sampling some free tea and inspecting the yogic wares of the vendors — clothing, Indian jewelry and statues, incense, etc. I was hesitant to go outside but amazingly the rain had stopped and the sun even peeked out from behind dark clouds. I walked to David Square, sat in a cafe and studied French, ran some errands, and then headed back to the armory with plenty of time for the afternoon session at 4pm.

I got a better spot at the 4pm session because I had moved my mat front and center right after the morning session. I was blessed with another conversant neighbor, a very mellow girl in her early 20s who is just finished her teacher certification in hatha yoga and who studied in France for a summer. “Parles-tu francais?” I asked slyly. “No,” she said. “I actually studied Sanskrit.”

The 4pm session featured a sitar player in addition to the drums (it’s amazing that these musicians can continuously play for hours on end). The afternoon practice focused on backbending and “heart-opening,” and was less vigorous than the morning… although it did not lack in challenges! Again, being well-versed in Shiva’s DVDs prepared me well for this radiant heart flow, and while I normally find this particular sequence too boring to do at home, on Monday I never wanted it to end. Every pose was heavenly; in downward dog, we’d peddle our feet to own own inspiration, in locust we’d move our arms and legs like abstract swimming, and then we’d get on the floor and roll to the right and then the left… and all this movement was so creative, dynamic, yet strangely restorative, without a twinge of self-consciousness, and without once thinking “I paid $55 to roll on a floor with 150 strangers for 2 hours.”

It was absolutely worth it, by the way, because I will now watch Shiva’s DVDs with absolute appreciation and renewed understanding for her practices. Plus, a moment burned in my memory: during the 4pm session, Shiva Rea gave me an assist! (An assist is hands-on help from the teacher or assistant to deepen or enhance a pose — a little different than an adjustment, which corrects the pose). We were in a Vasisthasana (side plank) variation (one leg in plank, the other leg bent in front) and we were bringing our free hands into the air with a tiny backbend when I felt a hand on my wrist gently pulling my arm longer and higher than it would have normally gone, and I heard Shiva’s voice behind my head as she spoke in the wireless mic headset, something about liberating or enlivening or empowering or devoting or something like that.

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George Decides to Write a Book

I have no doubt that the impending release of George W. Bush’s memoir “Decision Points” was timed to immediately follow the midterm elections, when the Republicans would regain some of the political power that they lost mostly as a result of the disastrous outcomes of Bush’s eight-year reign as president. This would allow GWB to return to the public eye unscarred by the shrapnel of his imploding presidency. Surely the GOP regaining control of Congress is evidence that the American public is fickle, that whatever evil GWB wrought is easily forgotten, and that America may even be in the beginning throes of GWB nostalgia, to which I bay: TOO SOON. It’s all TOO SOON.
It’s fun to speculate that the “Decision Points” title is self-effacingly acknowledging this infamous Bushism: “I’m the decider, and I decide what’s best. And what’s best is for Don Rumsfeld to remain as the secretary of defense.” GWB prided himself on being “the decider.” What an utterly low point in American political discourse. Not only was Bush defending Rumsfeld against an unprecedented military revolt against Rumsfeld’s abysmal planning and lack of strategic competence, but GWB was rebutting the concerns of eight retired generals and admirals with despotic, cocky ineloquence. Lest we forget…
One of the main purposes of a Presidential memoir is to help define a legacy. As if GWB’s legacy needed help! I have no intention of ever reading “Decision Points,” but I can’t stop reading the pre-release book reviews, which conveniently pick out the juiciest bits from the 481-paged tome.
  • His response to hearing from Condi Rice that a third plane had crashed into the Pentagon: “My blood was boiling. We were going to find out who did this, and kick their ass (here).”
  • On personally giving the CIA permission to waterboard to Khalid Sheik Mohammed in 2003: “Damn right.” (GWB still contends that simulated drowning is not torture.) (Here.)
  • On Katrina: “The problem was not that I made the wrong decisions. It was that I took too long to decide (here).”  The decider took too long to decide!
  • On immigration: “The failure of immigration reform points out larger concerns about the direction of our politics. The blend of isolationism, protectionism, and nativism that affected the immigration debate also led Congress to block free trade agreements with Colombia, Panama, and South Korea. I recognize the genuine anxiety that people feel about foreign competition. But our economy, our security, and our culture would all be weakened by an attempt to wall ourselves off from the world. Americans should never fear competition. Our country has always thrived when we’ve engaged the world with confidence in our values and ourselves (here).” (Wait, what was that? An informed, nuanced statement filled with empathy and pride that I kinda agree with? Who wrote that?)
  • And this charming anecdote of a visit to Russia, when Putin showed him his black Labrador, Koni. “Bigger, stronger, and faster than Barney,” Putin bragged. GWB later recounted this to Canadian Prime Minister Stephen Harper, who said “You’re lucky he only showed you his dog (here).” Ha ha ha. As Maureen Dowd quipped, if GWB keeps this up, I might have to vote for him.

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Dans la boue

If the Cambridge Center of Adult Education kept transcripts, mine would look something like this:

French Level 2 (fall 2006)
French Level 3 (spring 2007)
summer hiatus
French Levels 1 & 2 (intensive) (fall 2007)
French Level 2 (spring 2008)
two-semester hiatus
French Level 3 (spring 2009)
three-semester hiatus

I am entirely aware that this makes me look like a lazy, pitiful, dumb, yet persistent French language learner. Obviously this weekly 90-minute class with about 15 minutes of homework wasn’t translating into any sort of proficiency in the French language, making it impossible for me to progress beyond Level 3. By the final class, I would be so lost that I’d either retreat to a lower, too-easy level or drop out entirely in frustration.

Obviously, languages cannot be learned solely in a classroom; I needed to make a concerted effort to inundate myself in French. So I started watching French movies, listening to French podcasts, and reading French newspapers. I began using hiking as a way of practicing French on my captive French husband — simple stuff like “Il y a beacoup de feuilles sur le chemin” (there are a lot of leaves on the trail), to which he replies “Yes, there are” (in English). I bought a French grammar book that contains pages of nothing but grammar drills, which I work through on the stationary bike. I subscribed to Bien-Dire, a magazine for French language learners that includes an audio CD. I tried cooking with a French cookbook, though I was stumped by the quantities for ingredients (30 g de buerre? 1/2 litre de lait?) I’ll make an effort to understand French, but when it comes to the metric system, I’m hopeless.

I could tell all of this effort was paying off when I boldly signed up for French Level 4 in September. What a difference it makes, to actually understand the teacher, to not dread being called to read aloud, to be able  to formulate questions in French without slipping into sheepish pidgin English. In fact, I’m one of the star pupils, with the native French teacher frequently asking me about “votre mari francais.”

Parles-tu francais avec votre mari francais?” she asked me last week.

Oui, mais il repond en anglais,” I answer, cooly, flippantly, making her laugh. I can scarcely believe that these French words are flowing so effortlessly out of my mouth and, even more amazingly, a French person admits to understanding me.

Of course, I have a long way to go. Everytime I listen to a Podcast, I am reminded how fast French people actually speak. Everytime I open Bien-Dire, I am overwhelmed by the sheer number of words that I must commit to memory if I ever hope to be considered fluent in French. And everytime I speak French to Mr. P, he invariably looks bewildered over a word:

J’ai marché dans la boue,” I’ll say as we walk through the forest. (‘I walked in the mud.’)

Dans la what?” he asks.

Boue. Boue. Boue,” I’ll say, varying my pronounciation a little each time.

He’ll just lost in thought and then say “Ah! Dans la boue.”

“That’s what I said!” I insist, because to my ears, it is.

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Voting the Government Down

So weary of the news: the “midterm elections” with its “reversal of power” in the “House of Representatives” to the “Republicans.” So sick of the anger of the Tea Party, of their message of “limited Constitutional authority” juxtaposed with their demands for anti-abortion laws and bans on gay marriage. So tired of media speculation on the mood of the American electorate, fueling the hysteria, the malcontent, the very real anxiety that may be indicative that the American Way of Life as a system just isn’t sustainable, that our once-great country can no longer provide for its citizens. So done with it all coming down to the shit-for-brain voters in Ohio.

You want no government, people? Go to Africa. Most of the African countries don’t have governments and it’s a fucking paradise.

I absconded from the hard news websites to the safety of celebrity “news”. But, I found myself similarly vexed. Who are these people? Demi Lovato? Justin Bieber? T.I.? Hiccup Girl? I can’t say what makes me feel more out of touch: the countrywide hypocritical demand for “no government” or this inscrutable news item about a male teen mom hugging another man and then making out with white trash.

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