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Put a Helmet on It

So much to blog about, so little time to funnel all my stray thoughts into a cohesive post. And I’m wondering who wants to read about how my scratchy sore throat escalated rapidly into a semi-debilitating sinus-based cold; about how I was in the laundromat, folding my husband’s dryer-warm handkerchiefs when a swell of love for him nearly knocked me over; about how my favorite yoga teacher took savasana to a whole new level by dabbing lavender essential oil on the backs of our necks as we lay in repose after her rigorous class; about yesterday’s biannual dentist appointment, and how my dental hygienist really believes that I floss regularly because my gums no longer gush bloody gore when she scales my teeth; about how I left work today at 2pm because the snow was falling at a pretty good clip, and upon returning home I sat at my work laptop and actually worked without even turning on Judge Judy — a wonderful testament to my professional maturity, self-control, and insane work-orientated to-do list.

Cohesion. Where is the cohesion in all this?

Mr. P and I couldn’t resist a gift-giving Christmas preview. We exchanged one present each: Me, I gave him a tube of his favorite uber-expensive French after-shave balm that smells of musky meadow grass, while he presented me with a ski helmet, size XL because I’ve got a oversized skull. Now I am fully outfitted to go downhill skiing, and the helmet will give me the courage to sustain a decent speed as opposed to quaking from one side of the trail to another in a near-horizontal line. Ask any football player how empowering a helmet is.

And I received my helmet not a moment too soon, as next week we will be going skiing and the New Hampshire ski community is all abuzz about the second death in two weeks on Cannon Mountain (here). Two young men, one skier and one snowboarder, died apparently as a result of head trauma, and neither was wearing a helmet. There’s some tragic cohesion in that.

After reading about the two skiing deaths on Cannon Mountain, I effusively told Mr. P, “You can return whatever else you bought me for Christmas to the store. The only other thing I want for Christmas is for you to buy a skiing helmet for yourself.”

He laughed. “I don’t ski with helmets. I’m going to die like a man,” he told me.

This sort of casual, European attitude towards basic safety precautions like helmets makes me laugh and cry. Mr. P views helmets as pessimistic objects when used in the context of, say, a leisurely bike ride to the subway on the path or while coaxing me down the bunny slope. He also doesn’t floss. Ever. (Ah, cohesion, a bit, at last.)

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I Should Be Blogging

This time of year, there is no shortage of excuses for my blogging lapse. There’s parties, presents, cards, and a general early-winter fatigue — a byproduct of the short cold days that have remained horrifyingly snowless in Boston. Yesterday I curled up on the coach with a book — me, on the coach, with a book, at 3pm on a Saturday afternoon. I should be blogging, I remember thinking before dozing off with my fingers spliced in between the pages. I woke up to find the sun had disappeared and it was time to get ready to go out to eat.

I should be blogging, I thought today, as I made biscotti for tomorrow’s cookie swap at work. I should be blogging, I thought as I wrapped presents. I should be blogging, I thought as I wrote out Christmas cards. I should be blogging, I thought as I agonized in the aisles of Whole Foods over what trinkets I should buy for some close co-workers. I should be blogging, I thought after I logged into my WordPress account with all intention of blogging, only to get caught up in the task of deleting the hundreds of spam comments that have steadily accumulated. (I simply cannot weed through 800 spam comments about Cialis on the off-chance that someone has actually left a real comment in the past month.)

Even in my 7am hot yoga class — which I could only summon myself awake to attend on the strength of yesterday’s prolonged nap — I was mentally blogging instead of putting all my focus on breathing, opening, and blotting rivulets of forehead sweat before my tweezed-puny eyebrows were breached. An entire blog post, inspired by the teacher’s faux-profound comments that were made as we reposed in half-pigeon pose. “All my friends complain to me about how they hate sending Christmas cards,” she said. “And then yesterday, I open my mailbox and find it jammed with cards from all my friends who tell me they hate sending Christmas cards!”

An amusing anecdote that garnered a few titters from those of us who weren’t grimacing from hip-wrenching pain. But she didn’t carry the story to its logical conclusion: We fill our days with things we don’t really want to do. I should be blogging, everyday I should be blogging, but nobody wants to open a mailbox to find Christmas cards that nobody wanted to send, and nobody wants to read a blog filled with posts that nobody wanted to write.

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L’Assommoir

I’m about 90% finished reading Emile Zola’s gritty 1877 novel L’Assommoir about a working-class Parisian laundress named Gervaise and the shiftless drunkards who love her. Though I’m reading an English translation, I like to pretend that I’m absorbing enough French to warrant the many hours spent with my nose in this densely-typed, 450-paged book. Indeed, it’s the longest novel I’ve read in a few years. (Take that, faltering attention span!)

“You’re reading Zola? Huh, I read him in school,” Mr. P commented.

“Which one did you read?” I asked, since Zola was quite prolific.

“I don’t remember. I just remember that it was so boring!” he said.

I consider this. “Well, that’s why you became an engineer, because you found Zola boring,” I said. “I became an English major because Dickens enthralled me. I love this stuff.”

Indeed.  The opening chapter features a rip-roaring cat fight between Gervaise and Virginie (the sister of the woman her husband runs off with) in a clothes washhouse, during which they fling pails of water at each other, exchange slaps as the spectators cry “the sluts are murdering each other!”, and then beat each other with the clothes beaters. Owing to her training as a laundress, Gervaise perseveres:

With extraordinary strength she seized Virginie round the waist and forced her over so her face was pushed down on the flagstones and her bottom was in the air; despite her struggles, Gervaise pulled her skirts all the way up. Underneath were drawers. Slipping her hand into the slit she tore them off, exposing bare thighs and bare buttocks. Then Gervaise raised her beater and began to beat… the wood smacked into the flesh with a wet thud. With each blow, a red welt appeared on the white skin. At first there was more laughter. Soon, however, cries of “stop! Stop!” began again. Gervaise didn’t hear, didn’t tire. She wanted every inch of this flesh beaten, beaten and scarlet with shame.

Anyone who calls that boring just isn’t using their imagination. Then again, the novel does proceed to very nearly gloat about the societal ills wreaked by alcohol; I can see how that would turn off most Frenchmen. As Henry Youngman once said, “When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading.”

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Metrodome Fail

In retrospect, I’m not at all confounded by the spectacular Metrodome collapse. The people of Minneapolis resolved to build a stadium with its top shielded from the heavens, so that they may enjoy comfortable football, free from the elements. And the elements said… Hell no. This isn’t basketball, hockey, and it sure as hell ain’t baseball. This is football, and God and America intended it to be played in the flapping wind, the driving rain, the numbing cold, and the blowing snow. Demure, and you shall reap havoc.

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Sirius Fail

I don’t know what’s more pathetic: that, upon getting into the Jetta with a co-worker to venture into Concord center for takeout lunch, and turning the car on, I had neglected to remember that the radio was loudly tuned to the Sirius 80s channel after a full-tilt end-of-commute courage frolic to the Clash’s “Rock the Casbah” and hence the tuner was primed to pump out, of all things, New Kids of the Block’s “Hangin’ Tough” in all its lame glory… or that the co-worker just didn’t seem at all phased.

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The Best Driver Of Them All

Back in September, French Level 4 at the Cambridge Center of Adult Education started off with a robust class of 14 wanna-be Francophones, proud of their ability to speak and understand austere French phrases. Over the course of the semester, the number of attendees gradually dropped: dix, sept, quatre. Gone was the beautiful medical intern who liked faire du jogging and wanted to learn French so she could interact with her Haitian patients. Gone was the father of three who wanted to brush up on his college french for a planned Parisian trip next summer. Gone was the funky-hat-wearing young woman with a weak chin who introduced herself by saying that she didn’t know any French but she thought her knowledge of Spanish could carry her through Level 4. It did… for about two minutes.

Soon, there were trois: A bizarre young man from Brazil whose employer was subsidizing his French and Italian language acquisition, a mild-mannered electric company engineer who seemed to be on a personal quest for betterment, and me, the beleaguered American wife of a persnickety Frenchman. The native French teacher seemed to find me to be the most interesting pupil and would pepper me with questions about my French family.

Ils mangent beaucoup de lapin,” I mentioned last week. “Quand ma belle-mere est venue aux Etats-Unis, nous sommes allees au supermarche, et elle a dit ‘ou est le lapin?'” (Translation: They eat a lot of rabbit… When my step-mother came to the United States, we went to the supermarket, and she said ‘where is the rabbit?'”)

The teacher laughed and said something about how different regions eat more rabbit than others.

Et aussi, la famille de mon mari, ils mangeaient cheval,” I said in a hoarse whisper. (And also, the family of my husband, they would eat horse.)

“Ah,” the teacher said, going to the blackboard and writing out various vocabulary associated with the butchering and eating of horse. The Brazilian got excited in his bizarre way, while the mild-mannered engineer seemed oblivious to what we were talking about. “Do you know what Meredith is saying?” the teacher asked him. “She is saying that her husband’s family eats horse.”

His face silently imploded as she turned to the board and draw what looked like a little horse’s head on a spike. “The butchers hang a tete de le cheval outside the store,” she was saying, before opining on the economic motivations for eating horse. I didn’t want to say that they did, actually, like the taste.

At first the Brazilian seemed bizarre due to cultural and linguistic barriers, but soon I realized that he was a freak in any language. One class, we practiced how to compare things in French (for example “il mange plus de chevaux que moi” — he eats more horse than me). We had to partner up and pick two things about which we could write 10 comparative sentences. “How about Obama and Lula?” he suggested.

“Lula? The president of Brazil?” I asked. “Shouldn’t we pick something a little… easier?”

He insisted; I acquiesced. We wound up writing ridiculous sentences like “Lula is taller than Obama,” “The wife of Obama is prettier than the wife of Lula,” “Lula watches more movies than Obama,” and “Obama is a better driver than Lula” — a statement that caused our normally-staid French teacher to giggle. “How do you know this?” she asked.

I broke down too. “C’est tres drole,” I said to the Brazilian, who seemed mystified at our mirth. The mild-mannered engineer looked lost. “They said that Obama is a better driver than Lula,” the teacher translated.

“Now, we will move onto the superlative,” she said, going to the board and writing an example sentence:

Sarkozy est le meilleur chauffeur parmi nous.

(Sarkozy is the best driver of them all.)

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Gyming in Belgium

It’s hard for a body-conscious American to visit Belgium — a country that subsists primarily on waffles, french fries, chocolate, and beer — and not feel the need to periodically torch a slew of calories. Luckily for me, we cashed in some serious loyalty points to stay at the Hilton Brussels City, which caters to the international business traveler. When we checked in, the young woman at the front desk greeted us in English, not French (and certainly not Flemish). All of the newspapers were in English, and the television carried more English channels than local channels. And, the hotel boasted one of the nicest hotel gyms I’ve ever seen. It was small, but featured state-of-the-art equipment and machines in a well-ventilated, high-ceiled room with a big-screen television. It was about as European as a SUV at an all-you-can-eat pizza buffet whining about taxes and liberals.

So our second evening in Brussels, after a day spent roaming art museums, sampling chocolates, and discovering the joys of ham and cheese tartines, I decided to hit the hotel gym as Mr. P, maddeningly, worked remotely (our lunch was interrupted when he received an urgent phone call from his boss about some fatal error or something). The gym was empty when I arrived — just like any given hotel gym in America, home sweet home.

I got on a treadmill, entered my age and weight, and started at a nice leisurely jogging pace of 5.0. Strangely, the belt wasn’t moving with sufficient speed that I could break into a run, so I upped the speed higher, going to 6.3. I was cruising and so proud of myself. Yes, I had been largely sedentary for the past three days, and in fact I hadn’t run in more than a week, so it made sense my muscles felt fresh. Yet… I wasn’t sweating. My breath was so stable that I could have carried on a conversation about recurring themes in Rilke’s lyrical prose.

And so it continued, me so comfortable that I pushed the pace to 6.6 — a 9 minute mile, a pace that I rarely attain in non-race situations. Around minute 30, when I had started mile 3 with nary a hint or perspiration, I began to wonder if something was wrong with the treadmill. Maybe the belt ran slow? The calorie counter on the treadmill’s display informed me that I had burned 450 calories. I was already converting Belgian chocolates to calories in my head…

When it dawned on me that I was, in fact, in Belgium. Where they used the metric system.

My 6.6 pace wasn’t mph, but kilometers per hour. I had no mental reference point for what that meant, except a 5k was 3 miles, so 3k was less than 2 miles in 30 minutes, which meant that I probably didn’t need to be running. A brisk walk would suffice.

And the incredibly generous calorie count? I had entered a weight of 140, which when converted to kilograms is about 300 pounds. No wonder the treadmill assumed my metabolism was doing a biological version of the Kuwaiti oil fires.

Half-dejected, half-amused, I stopped the treadmill. What am I doing? I’m on vacation in Brussels, and I’m exercising in the metric system.

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Tis the Football Season

It is a cold Sunday afternoon in December and I am ready for some football. The spectacle of grown men pummeling each other in mad pursuit of a spherical ball is the perfect accompaniment for completing my Christmas correspondence. I turn on the television, which is pre-set on PBS, as that’s all we watch aside from NFL football. We are high-brow heathens.

It’s pledge time on PBS and they are showing segments of Rick Stevens’ European Christmas. The Norwegian Girl’s Choir is singing “Joy to the World”; I pause, momentarily enchanted by combination of Christmas music with video footage of a distinctly non-commercial manner.

“Huh, I think I know this one,” Mr. P comments from behind his computer. Mr. P is, maddeningly, working on actual work, communing with some distant database via a black terminal screen and rapid-fire unix commands.

“You know this one?” I ask. Laughter bursts over. “Well, aren’t you well-versed in your Christmas carols? Let me ask you, who doesn’t know this one? It’s freaking ‘Joy to the World!'”

Entirely unfair, I know, to harass a Frenchman in regards to what is a historically English hymn that doesn’t get much play in France, although the youth of Norway seem to be keen on it.

The next segment features Pope John Paul II giving a Christmas mass.

“Huh, is that the Pope, babe?” Mr. P asks, peering at the screen at the little gray-haired man in a white cap speaking Latin.

“No, it’s Michael Jackson,” I retort with an evil grin.

“Huh! Babe is being sarcastic today,” he says, typing away. It’s hard to rile my husband, which is good because most normal men would’ve killed me by now.

I watch the Pope natter away unconvincingly. “So you really believe that God sent that man to do his bidding on Earth?” I needle Mr. P, who is a non-practicing but still devout Catholic.

“Of course,” he says.

“You really believe that?”

“The process for selecting the Pope is very thorough,” Mr. P says.

I watch the elderly white man, now wearing a papal tiara, being carried down the church aisle. “How come God only sends white men from Europe?”

I switch the television to the New York Giants-Washington Redskins game and start Googling things about “Catholic” and “Bible” and “football,” because I am suddenly curious about what the Pope would have to say about football. It appears that the Pope doesn’t have much to say about football, although he seems to like soccer, but I did find a website that listed biblical verses that could be interpreted as taking a stance on the holiness of football, like this:

Six days work shall be done, but on the seventh day you shall have a Sabbath of solemn rest, holy to the Lord. Whoever does any work on it shall be put to death. — Exodus 35:2

Can “solemn rest” be defined as watching these Samsons use their bodies as battering rams in vainglorious pursuit of fame and triumph? Maybe I should put PBS back on.

In relation to the Bible and football, the website also found this verse to be relevant:

When men fight with one another and the wife of the one draws near to rescue her husband from the hand of him who is beating him and puts out her hand and seizes him by the private parts,  then you shall cut off her hand. Your eye shall have no pity. Deuteronomy 25:11-12

Funny, I think the NFL has the same rule.

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Amsterdamn Fine!

The train trip from Brussels to Amsterdam took 2 3/4 hours. The train shuttled peacefully along until Rotterdam, when our quiet car was enlivened by a group of six 40ish women with nose rings, teased hair of many unnatural colors, and an amalgam of gothic, retro, and fetish clothing. They spoke Dutch but their conversation was littered with familiar phrases: Facebook, iPhone, Lady Gaga, Las Vegas. Everything about them — their laidback outrageousness, their savvy awareness and acceptance of the outside world –was so modernly Dutch that they seemed like harbingers of the great city where we would spend the next two nights: Amsterdam!

When we arrived in Amsterdam, the sun was, amazingly, shining. Both Mr. P and I had been to Amsterdam before we met and neither of us saw the sun. We were so enraptured that we stood outside of the train station with our gigantic backpacks, trying to bask.

Amsterdam Train Station

We walked more than 1 mile to our hotel along the main tourist thoroughfare, loving the canals, the bicycles, and even the stoned tourists. How amazing that a city this size and in this climate can function primarily on bicycles. It gives me hope about the future, though Amsterdam’s discord with the automobile is intrinsic to its anatomy of small streets and canals.

Bicycles

It was too early to check into the hotel so we dropped off our backpacks and visited some nearby museums. The term “museum” in Amsterdam can involve anything from Van Gogh and Anne Frank to vodka, sex, tulips, torture, and beer. Our first stop was the Museum Willet-Holtuysen, a preserved 17th-century canalside home that featured the expansive art collection of the last inhabitants. Our second stop was the Amsterdam Historical Museum, where we were immersed in Amsterdam’s origins and history. When we emerged from the museum, it was dusk at 4:30pm and time to go back to the hotel.

Dusk in Amsterdam

At the front desk, a cheerful woman who spoke impeccable English handed us our key and gave us directions to our room. We were excited about this high-class boutique hotel with bargain low-season rates, and when we opened the door to our room we were stunned: It was huge! It had a private balcony overlooking a courtyard! It had pop-art style paintings of Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe and a small podium for the bed! I whirled around the room, my arms wide and wondrous. But… wait, is that someone’s suitcase? And hey, there’s some shirts hanging in the closest? And why’s there a half-eaten chocolate bar next to the bed?

Mr. P went downstairs to reception, returning 5 minutes later with keys to a different room: “It was a big mistake. We should have never been here,” he said, gathering up the contents of his pockets that he had scattered on the desk. “Close the bathroom door! Turn out the light! Leave no trace!”

Our real room was smaller but had a view of the canal. We showered, relaxed, and then headed back out for some Indian food.

“Our” Canal

We woke up the next morning and luxuriated in our free breakfast — toast! ham! cheese! kiwi? Then we walked along the canals until we reached the Museumplein and the famed Rijksmuseum. We paused to admire the mansions across the canal and to bask a little more in the uncharacteristic Amsterdam sun.

The Rijksmuseum is operating on reduced capacity as it undergoes renovations; only one wing is open, and the selected works are sort of a “best of” of Dutch art. We studied the Rembrandts, the Vermeers, and the Steens with help of our trusty audio guides. Yet it only took us 90 minutes to go through the entire collection — and we took our time! It ended with Rembrandt’s Night Watch, but my favorite is Frans Hal’s Portrait of a Young Couple. It’s not the most beautiful painting, but I feel like I can relate to them, which is not typically a thought I have when looking at 17th century portraiture.

Frans Hals’ Portrait of a Young Couple

We continued our museum bonanza by going to Museum Van Loon, another rich family’s canal house-turned-public exhibit.

Garden of Museum Van Loon

Museum Van Loon

We swore off museums for the rest of the day and simply walked through the city, idly shopping and taking pictures.

Our hotel was located right near Amsterdam’s Winterland, a seasonal park with a skating rink and assortment of carnival games. Is this as close as we got to an Amsterdam coffeeshop? No comment…

Skating Rink

We were so smitten with Amsterdam that, as we dined on ostrich at a fun little French place, we were already dreading our departure the next day, which happened to be Thanksgiving. We woke up and enjoyed another nice breakfast, taking care to sample some of the turkey-looking cold cuts.

Our train was scheduled for 12:58, so in the morning we checked out of the hotel, left our bags, and went to the nearby Hermitage museum, a Dutch outpost of the famed Russian art museum that was showing a special exhibit on Alexander the Great. We dawdled on this and then rushed to the train station, where we were met with an unpleasant surprise: our train to Brussels was canceled due to a rail strike in Belgium! This was a disaster, because if we took the next scheduled train, we would probably miss the Eurostar train that we were counting on to deliver us to England; no Thanksgiving dinner with Mr. P’s family? Well, if you have money, there’s always a way. We paid a fair sum to take the high-speed train to Brussels, where the Eurostar awaited…

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In Bruges

Everything that I knew about the town of Bruges, Belgium came from the 2008 Irish black comedy In Bruges, in which two hitmen are sent to Bruges by their mob boss to go into hiding after mistakenly gunning down a child. “Bruges? What the fuck is in Bruges?” I remember one of the hitmen lamenting.

It turns out that there’s quite a lot in Bruges. In fact, to hear Bruges tell it, Bruges used to be the hub of the universe from the 12th century to the 15th century, owing to its key location as a seafaring trading link. These days, Bruges is Belgium’s ultimate tourist destination, with a historic town center teeming with medieval buildings, architecture, and chocolate shops. It was well worth the 60-minute train ride from Brussels. Even the gray, cold weather could not squelch the city’s charm.

Swans in Bruges

Our first stop was a tour of the ‘De halve Maan’ (The Half Moon) brewery, which has been active since 1856.

Beer Tanks

Beer Can Collection at Half Moon Brewery

We learned that the Belgians are as fanatical about beer as the French are about wine — they’re all about food pairing, aging, and proper storage. Each brand of beer has its own unique glass that is, supposedly, perfectly engineered for that beer.

Beer and Glasses

After going up and down numerous narrow staircases to tour the brewery, we were rewarded with a lovely glass of Brugse Zot beer.

After the brewery, we walked through the quaint streets, smiling at the quaint buildings.

This shot is known as the postcard view, as it shows both the canal and the belfry.

Postcard Bruges View

As it was Monday, all three of the major museums were closed, but we were still able to tour the astounding Gothic room in the Town Hall — a stunning testament to the city’s former prominence.

Bruges Town Hall

Gothic Room

We stopped in a touristy restaurant for lunch. I ordered a beer. “Small, medium, or large?” the waiter asked. I asked for a medium. I’m incredibly glad I didn’t ask for a large.

Gigantic Medium Beers

We finished out our afternoon in Bruges in the picturesque main square, where we climbed all 350-something steps to the top of the belfry.

Bruges from the Belfry

After an all-too-short 6 hours in Bruges, we boarded the train back to Brussels to spend our final night in Belgium. In the movie In Bruges, the main character says “If I grew up on a farm, and was retarded, Bruges might impress me but I didn’t, so it doesn’t.” Well then, call me a mentally impaired bumpkin! because I was impressed.

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